One of the questions I get asked most often is what camera to buy for everyday use. So I thought I would outline the various considerations for each type of camera starting with the Point and Shoot.
What is a Point and Shoot? Generally it is a small camera with automatic features and a fixed lens. The camera comes in various sizes but the most popular cameras are those that can be placed in a pocket and are quickly available for a candid shot.
The market for point and shoot cameras is overwhelming and changes quickly. Cameras are often improved and upgraded within a year of introduction so it is hard to stay ahead of the curve. The best way to determine the right camera is to outline how you will use it and what are the features that are most important to you. Armed with this information you will have a better chance of working through the options. After you have determined your needs, search online first to learn about cameras and options. Reviews are really helpful and some of the most helpful reviews by consumers are found on Amazon or B&H Photo. Also, B&H will highlight some cameras on their web site and provide a review. Once you have narrowed your selection do a general Internet search tagging for problems with the camera to solicit any negative feedback about your choice. Also, if you aren’t familiar with all the features of today’s digital cameras and want to learn more a trip to the brick and mortar camera store is invaluable. Not only that but buying a camera from a camera store can start a relationship where you can learn how to use the camera and get the most out of your investment. Many will match Internet prices but all of the independent dealers offer something that the Internet can’t provide – hands on experience and interactive learning about your new camera.
Here are 10 things to consider when buying a point and shoot (Note these are not in order of importance):
1. Sensor Size: A small sensor usually leads to more image noise. The noise increases when you're shooting at higher ISO settings. The sensor size is a limiting factor for the number of megapixels offered on a camera. Canon actually downsized the number of megapixels to 10 when it introduced the G-11 in 2009. The older G-10 had 14 megapixels but had more problems with noise. Generally there is no need to go above 8-10 megapixels for the point and shoot.
2. Lens: Consider what the camera will be used for: If you do a lot of nature photography, you may want to look for a camera with at least a 10X optical-zoom lens otherwise the typical 3X optical-zoom lens (the equivalent of a 35mm–105mm lens) will be fine. Don't think you are getting more if there is also digital zoom, you really want to just focus on the optical zoom capability as digital zoom isn’t really zooming in it is cropping the image to make objects appear larger in the picture. For day-to-day use, a 3 X optical zoom will suffice.
3. LCD Screen: Generally, the bigger the LCD, the better, especially if it is used in place of a viewfinder. Inexpensive cameras tend to have poor quality LCD screens that are hard to see. You want the image to be sharp and not delayed if you pan the camera across a scene. Also, most of the less expensive cameras only have the LCD screen and no viewfinder. I am from the school where I still use the view finder to compose and take the shot, if for no other reason than you can't see an LCD screen in bright light. I often take tourists' pictures with their own point and shoots on the National Mall and I have an awful time knowing if I have the shot with the Capitol in the background with the people in focus just using an LCD. So if you plan to do a lot of work outside in bright light, you might want to consider a viewfinder in addition to the LCD Screen. On my Nikon SLRs, I use a Hoodman over the LCD to check my shots, but I compose using the viewfinder. Many of the Panasonic cameras offer an optional viewfinder that you can attach.
4. Data management: You’ll also want to consider what settings and parameters are displayed on the screen when shooting. Ideally you want information on the ISO setting, number of pictures remaining, battery life, shooting mode (including white balance setting), and any exposure compensation, if that is an option. Of course some of these features may drive up the camera price so you have to decide what is important to you. While most cameras have the number of pictures remaining and the shooting mode, I find the most helpful information is the battery life so I can plan before the little red light suddenly appears and then I am shut down without warning.
5. Facial recognition: One of the more useful modes on many point and shoot cameras is facial recognition and now there are even cameras that have smile recognition. That is a bit too automatic for me but I know people find it very helpful, especially when taking pictures of groups.
6. File format: Almost all of the lower end point and shoot use JPEG and don't have the RAW. RAW is good if you want to process your own pictures and have full control over the megapixels without JPEG compression. If you want RAW look at the Canon S95 or the Panasonic Lumix series. In a future blog I will explore 4/3 cameras, which offer RAW capability, including the Canon G series.
7. Storage Cards: Storage cards keep changing. My old Canon S410 uses a Compact Flash card, which I love because I can use the same carrying case for the cards as for my professional equipment. That said I don't mix the cards between cameras. I tend to use my older CF cards with the Canon S410, as it doesn't require cards that read fast or have a lot of megapixels. New point and shoots use Secure Digital (SD) cards and now there is a Secure Digital High Capacity (SDHC) card. Remember, however, that you need to check compatibility of your cards with the camera you are buying. Also, SDHC cards are not backward compatible with SD cards. I won't go into the new SDX card at this point as an SD or SDHC should suffice. In addition, buying a high capacity GB SD card for a point and shoot is overkill. First, almost all of these cameras only shoot JPEG and not RAW, so you get a lot more pictures on a card even in the Fine mode. If your criteria includes the RAW feature, than a larger SD card is warranted. In addition, it is better if you have more than one card in case the card goes bad so get a couple of smaller cards instead of one large one. Consider it a little insurance plan of not having all your eggs in one basket.
8. Batteries: To keep the camera small it will likely have a proprietary battery, which is generally a small lithium unit that is rechargeable. While AA batteries are easier to find when traveling, the cameras that use standard AA batteries are bulkier. In any case, batteries do last longer these days and they are less expensive so get a back up to avoid being caught short at that special moment.
9. Video: Almost all point and shoots available currently have video. Check whether there is a HDMI output to get the display on a HD television if you plan to share your video with friends without looking at the tiny LCD screen.
10. Focus Control: Point and shoots by definition are designed to be automatic. Some point and shoots offer manual control but even professional photographers often use their supplemental point and shoot in the automatic mode. If you want the option of manual control you will be looking at a higher end point and shoot that may be more complicated to use. The Canon S95 gets good reviews for its focusing ring for manual mode use.
In a future blog, I will explore the 4/3 or mirrorless camera systems.

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